ABOUT PHUKET

Phuket (ภูเก็ต), pronounced (roughly) "poo-get", is Thailand’s largest island. It is 48 km in length, 21 km at its widest, and is in Southern Thailand on the west-facing Andaman Sea coastline, suspended from the southern tip of Phang Nga Province by a pair of short but substantial road bridges.

Phuket nestles in balmy Andaman Sea waters on Thailand’s Indian Ocean coastline 862 kilometres south of Bangkok.

Phuket formerly derived its wealth from tin and rubber, and enjoyed a rich and colourful history. The island was on one of the major trading routes between India and China, and was frequently mentioned in foreign trader’s ship logs.

In recent times, though, Phuket's top earner has been tourism, which has transformed the island into Thailand's wealthiest province. The west coast of Phuket was hit severely by the Indian Ocean tsunami of December 2004, but almost no evidence of the damage now remains.

Phuket enjoys great popularity as a travel destination. Most beaches are on the west coast, with Phuket Town to the south-east and the airport in the north.

Phuket Town (Mueang Phuket) is the provincial capital of Phuket Province. Phuket Town is the largest town in Phuket Province. It has a population of 63,000 and is the economic hub of the island. For the most part just an ordinary, scruffy provincial Thai town, it's hardly a major tourist attraction, but the Chinatown area is worth a quick look and there are some great Thai-style shopping opportunities too. Overall, accommodation and food in the town is cheaper than near the beaches, and can provide a refreshing change of pace.

Get Around Phuket Town is just a little too big to be covered comfortably on foot. There's little organised public transport as such, but motorbikes and four wheel tuk-tuks whizz about looking for fares.

See Phuket Town's low-key attractions are mostly related to its colourful Chinese history and heritage, found in the Chinatown area on the north-western side of the city around Thanon Thalang.

Old Phuket (ย่านเมืองเก่าภูเก็ต). The beginning of the tin boom in the 19th century led to construction of many fine mansions and shops that are still well preserved. The architectural style, typical of the region, is described as Sino-Portuguese and has a strongly Mediterranean character. Shops present a very narrow face onto the street but stretch back a long way. Many, especially on Dibuk Road, have old wooden doors with Chinese fretwork carving.

Other streets, forming what might be called "Old Phuket", with similar structures are Phang-nga, Yaowarat, Thalang, and Krabi, and a walking tour of the area is easy and delightful. Some other old European-style buildings of note are the Provincial Hall, the Phuket Courthouse, and Siam City Bank.

Jui Tui and Put Jaw Temples, corner of Thanon Ranong and Soi Phuthon (just west of the Ranong bus terminus). Put Jaw is the oldest Chinese Taoist temple in Phuket, first built over 200 years ago and dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy (Kwun Im), while the adjacent and connected Jui Tui is its larger, more modern annex. If you have a question that is puzzling you, ask it and throw the two red mango-shaped pieces in front of the altar in the air: if they land the same side up the answer is "no", while if they land on different sides the answer is "yes". Free entry but donations welcome.

Wat Mongkol Nimit, Thanon Dibuk. A classical Thai-style temple with a soaring roof and lots of colourful glass tiling.

Phuket Culture Museum, at Rajabhat University. It's free and very informative. Phuket's history is told in pictures and still scenes.

Khao Rang (เขารัง) A great view of Phuket Town, the southern part of the island, and some of the offshore islands, can be obtained by going to the top of Khao Rang Hill, on the town's northwest border. There are also several restaurants featuring spectacular views of the city, a health park for exercise enthusiasts, and a comfortable, expanse of grass at the top with a bronze statue of Phraya Ratsada Nupradit, the model Governor of Phuket during King Rama V's reign.

Saphan Hin (สะพานหิน). A land reclamation project provided abundant new land now used for parks and public facilities at Saphan Hin, located where Phuket Road meets the sea in Phuket Town. In the circle is the Tin Mining Monument, shaped like a large drill bit, dedicated to the memory of Captain Edward Thomas Miles, the Australian who brought the first tin dredge to Phuket in 1909. The monument was built in 1969 on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of tin dredging in Phuket. There is a sport center in the park.

Phuket Butterfly Farm (สวนผีเสื้อและโลกแมลงภูเก็ต). 3km from town via Yaowarat Road and the Sam Kong intersection. It has a fascinating collection of such tropical creatures as butterflies, insects, marine life all arranged in natural surroundings. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. Admission is 300 bath for adults and 150 baht for children. Tel: 0 7621 0861, Fax: 0 7652 3609

Phuket Cultural Center (ศูนย์ศิลปวัฒนธรรมจังหวัดภูเก็ต). Located in the area of the Phuket Rajabhat University on Thepkrasattri Road. It displays history as well as the arts and culture of Phuket, such as houses, ways of life, and utensils of the city of Thalang in ancient times. Furthermore, the library collects books on Phuket’s history and culture. The center is open daily for free from 8.30 a.m. – 4.30 p.m., except public holidays. For a group of visitors who needs a guided tour, please address a letter of request to the Phuket Cultural Center at 21 Thepkrasattri Road, Tambon Ratsada, Amphoe Mueang Phuket, Phuket, or call Tel. 0 7624 0474-6 ext. 148, 0 7621 1959, 0 7622 2370, Fax: 0 7621 1778.

Thai Village and Orchid Farm (หมู่บ้านไทยและสวนกล้วยไม้ภูเก็ต). Located on Thepkasattri Road about 3km from town, serves daily a typical southern Thai lunch that is followed by a spectacular cultural show including Thai dances, Thai boxing southern customs and elephants. Handicrafts are also on display. The complex also houses a dining hall decorated with over 20,000 varieties of orchid and tropical trees. Digestion is aided by the lilting sounds of Thai classical and folk music played on tradition instruments. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m.-9.00 p.m. Cultural shows are performed daily at 1.00 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. Admission is 650 baht for adults and 330 baht for children. Call 0 7621 4860, 0 7623 7400 for details.

Phuket Zoo (สวนสัตว์ภูเก็ต) Located on the way to Chalong Bay, the zoo contains a collection of Asian and African mammals and birds. Elephant and crocodile shows are performed every day. The zoo is open daily from 8.30 a.m. - 6.00 p.m. Admission is 500 baht for adults and 300 baht for children. Call 0 7637 4430, 0 7637 4424 for details.

Buy

Shopping seems to be the main reason for visitors to come to Phuket Town. In addition to local markets and a slew of malls and departments stores, Chinatown's Thanon Thalang offers a large selection of boutiques and galleries retailing traditional handicrafts as well as antiques from the region. Phuket Night Bazaar is a large area, where you can get local stuff (though you might find the same things much cheaper at the Big C supermarket!).

Markets

Ranong Market, Thanon Ranong, is the largest local market. A warren of stalls selling anything and everything, it can be a hot, sweaty and chaotic but an interesting experience if you've not been to one before. However it is closed (2008) as they are constructing a new building.

Weekend Market - endless stalls with the cheapest of Thai souvenirs.

Shopping malls

Ocean and Robinsons are next to each other on Tilok Uthit 1 Road. Robinsons is a big department store, and there is a Tops supermarket, as well as McD's , KFC etc.

Central Festival, Thanon Chaloem Phra Kiat - Phuket's branch of the Thai department store chain, also selling anything and everything but now in air-con comfort and a zero added to the price tag. It's still probably cheaper than the street markets at the beaches.

SuperCheap claims to be the biggest and cheapest mall in Phuket, a cross between a Metro Market, Walmart, a Bazaar, and a normal local market for nearly everything from groceries to motorbike and car supplies and electronics. The best time to visit is in the evening. Take a small dinner in the nearby Thai restaurant (all you can eat for 69 baht - but when you leave something on the plate it costs 100 baht!) and afterwards join the Thai people at the market. SuperCheap is situated on the road to the airport, about 5 km out of Phuket Town centre, just behind the Esso site. Open until midnight.

Chalong Bay (Ao Chalong) is on the east coast of Phuket. This is Phuket's principal boat anchorage and the island's largest bay, 11 kilometres south of the town. It is very picturesque but not suitable for swimming. Boats can be chartered to go to some small island south of Phuket. A number of restaurants are on the road leading to the bay.

Get Around Numerous boats span out from Chalong to nearby islands, including Ko Hae (Coral Island), Ko Racha (Ko Raya) and more.

See Wat Chalong A beautiful Buddhist temple located on the southern end of the island. This is where stands the cast statue of Luang Pho Cham, who helped the people of Phuket, put down the Angyee, or Chinese Coolie Rebellion, in 1876 during the reign of Rama V. There are also statues of Luang Pho Chuang, and Luang Pho Cham, abbots of the temple during later times. Wat Chalong is about 8 kilometres outside town. Take Wichit Songkram Road to the bypass and turn left, and drive for about 10 minutes. Wat Chalong is on the left.

Do As the main boat harbour for Phuket Island, most Scuba Diving companies have now relocated from other areas to Chalong. Most of Phuket's speed boat,fishing boats, snorkeling companies and yacht charter are also located here. Destinations include Coral Island, Phi Phi Island, and Koh Racha for day trips, snorkeling, diving and deep sea fishing. Chalong has a shooting range, atv, elephant rides, go kart track, paint ball and horse riding. One "Must Do" is to drive up to the famous Big Buddha which over looks Phuket Town, Chalong Bay, numerous islands and on a clear day even Phi Phi Island, 38 miles away can be seen.

Buy At Chalong it is possible to buy scuba equipment at wholesale prices. All scuba, day trips to the islands, and fishing trips and boat charters are available. There is a large supermarket with just about everything one could need.

Beaches The major beaches from north to south are:

Mai Khao (Sai Kaeo) - near the airport, very quiet (aside from the planes!) and far away from it all
Nai Thon and Nai Yang - two quiet beaches in Sirinat National Park
Bang Thao (Laguna Beach) - long, very quiet beach
Surin and Pansea Beach - an up-and-coming upmarket destination
Laem Sing - small bay with stunning views, between Kamala Beach and Surin Beach
Kamala Beach - a quieter beach to the north of Patong
Kalim Beach - a series of small beaches just to the north of Patong
Patong Beach - the largest beach resort, known for its nightlife
Karon and Karon Noi Beaches - the second most-developed beach after Patong
Kata Yai Beach - busy, clean tourist beach with good surf
Kata Noi Beach - quieter sister of Kata Yai
Nai Han and Ao Sen - a quiet beach (probably the best) in the south, near Phromthep Cape view point
Ya Nui Beach
Rawai, Mittraphap and Laem Ka - set off point for lots of local islands, popular with locals for eating on the beach
Cape Panwa - home to Phuket Aquarium

Islands There are dozens of small islands (ko) between Phuket and Krabi. The following have accommodation:

Ko Bon - 10 minutes from Rawai, an ideal island for a day of snorkeling and relaxing.
Ko Hae (Coral Island) - 15 minutes by speedboat from Chalong Bay, accessible all year.
Ko Lon - quiet, mostly Muslim island with a few bungalows
Ko Mai Thon - gorgeous little island with only one (expensive) place to stay
Ko Maphrao (Coconut Island)
Ko Racha (Ko Raya) - consists of two islands (Yai and Noi), popular with scuba divers and a relaxing snorkeling destination.
Ko Sire (Ko Si Le) - Sea Gypsy colony, connected to the mainland by a causeway
Ko Yao - two islands halfway to Krabi, with four upmarket resorts

Climate

Phuket is hot and humid throughout the year. The hot season is generally considered to be from March to early May. During the summer monsoon season from May to October, mornings and afternoons are still sunny and clear, but it tends to rain in the evenings and water clarity goes down. Locals consider November to February the "cool" season, and the weather is quite tolerable, much more so than in the tourism centers around the Gulf coast. It's comparable to Florida's summer weather in temperature and intensity of rain storms: 25-33 deg C, flying clouds, short and thunderous rainfalls in the afternoons and evenings. Surfing is possible off the western beaches.

Culture

Phuket is a melting pot of Buddhists, Thai-Chinese, Muslims and even sea gypsies. The majority of the population in the rural areas is Muslim. Outside of the provincial town, the rural folk speak with a thick Southern dialect which is difficult for even other Thais to understand. The provincial town’s economy having boomed over the past decade has lead to a lot of the youngsters leading similar lives to those in Bangkok. Altogether, the lifestyle of the urban Thai-Chinese resembles that of Bangkokians.

Get in

By plane
The compact Phuket International Airport (IATA: HKT) (ICAO: VTSP) is in the north of the island, and is Thailand's second largest hub, second only to Bangkok. There are very frequent flights to/from Bangkok as well as direct flights to many other airports in the region, including Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and direct charters to Europe and Australia in the high season.

International flights

Malaysia - AirAsia, FireFly and Malaysia Airlines have direct flights from/to Kuala Lumpur.
Singapore - SilkAir has 32 flights a week. Low cost alternatives are Thai AirAsia and Tiger Airways.
Germany - LTU has several flights a week nonstop to Munich.
Vietnam - Air Asia operates direct daily flights from/to Hochiminh city (aka Saigon) from December 3rd 2009

Other low cost direct connections include Hong Kong, Jakarta, Macao, and Seoul.

Charter flights
There are some charter flights in high season from European and Asian countries such as Sweden, Taiwan, Japan, etc. The airlines charge a very cheap fare.

Domestic flights
Several domestic discount airlines fly here, including Air Asia. Tickets from Bangkok can cost under 1000 baht one-way if booked well in advance, or around 2000 baht (including taxes) if bought on the day.

Thai Airways flies from Bangkoks Suvarnabhumi airport several times every day, as well as once daily from Chiang Mai (but there are no direct flights in the opposite direction). Additionally, they sell tickets from/to many domestic and international destinations with stopover in Bangkok - which are usually cheaper (especially international) than if you book separate tickets. Cheapest (non-exchangeable and non-refundable - though taxes are refunded even in the unfortunate case of no-show, if you call them later) one-way ticket from Bangkok, as of April 2008, costs 2320 baht - worth checking if you book just a few days before flight, as low-cost airlines may cost only 200-300 baht less in this situation, but you get world-famous Thai Airways service, and free onboard meals too.

Bangkok Airways has a monopoly on direct flights between Phuket and U-Tapao (Pattaya / Sattahip) and Ko Samui. They also have 4 daily flights from Bangkok - fares are around 1700 baht inclusive of taxes when purchased on the airline website.

Destination Air Shuttle offers direct seaplane transfers (some of which operate seasonally) between Phuket and Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi, Krabi, Ranong, Trang, the Similan Islands, and other popular Andaman coast destinations.

Departure tax is now included in the ticket price. The airport is notionally divided into Terminal 1 and 2, with some charter and low-cost operators using the second, but these are only a few hundred meters apart and connected by an air-conditioned walkway.

By train
There are no direct train services to Phuket. Travellers by train must get off at Phun Phin railway station in Surat Thani and continue for another 5 hours by regular bus to Phuket. See Surat Thani for details.

By bus
Buses to mainland destinations including Bangkok, Chumphon, Hat Yai, Krabi, Phang Nga, Ranong, Satun, Sungai Kolok and Surat Thani use the BKS terminal off Thanon Phang Nga in Phuket Town.

The most reliable buses from Bangkok are the public BKS buses from the Southern Bus Terminal to Phuket. The journey takes 13 hours. There are also 2 private bus companies, Phuket Travel Tour and Phuket Central Tour. Khao San Road operations have a bad reputation for theft, often turn out to include a "surprise" transfer to a minibus at Surat Thani, and are best avoided.

From Phuket bus terminal to your final destination, you can take a motorcycle taxi, tuk-tuk, meter-taxi, or bus. A motorcycle taxi into Phuket Town will be about 10-20 baht; to most beaches 100-200 baht (negotiable).

A local bus to one of the main beaches will cost around 15-30 baht. It's not unusual for the tuk-tuk drivers at the bus terminal to tell arriving travellers that the local bus service has finished, even though it hasn't. If you are of the hiking/backpacking type, the local bus station, which will take you to Patong Beach is about twenty minutes away. When exiting the bus terminal, make a right onto Phang-Nga Rd. Continue down Phang-Nga until it terminates at Yaowarat Rd., then turn left. Within a few steps you will see a roundabout. Once at the roundabout, keep right. By keeping right, you will find Ranong Rd. Within 100 to 200 meters you will find the local bus stop.

Before exiting the Phuket bus terminal, grab a free Phuket map from the information window. While supplies may always not be on hand, the map is a great way to get your bearing before jumping-off.

By car
Phuket is directly connected to the mainland by the Thao Thepkasattri Bridge. From Bangkok, take Highway 4 through Nakhon Pathom, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chumphon, thence through Ranong province’s Kra Buri and Kapoe districts, Phang-nga province’s Takua Pa and Thai Muang districts and onto Phuket island. The total distance is 862km.

By boat
Ferry services connect from Rassada Port in Phuket Town to Ko Phi Phi and on to Krabi on the mainland twice a day, taking 90 minutes and costing 350/650 baht one-way/return, for each leg. It's usually a pleasant ride, but can be rather bumpy when it's windy.

There are also speedboats to Ko Racha (2 hours), the Similan Islands (about 3 hours) and other islands in the high season only. Boats and yachts can be chartered at Chalong Bay, the Boot Lagoon, the Yacht Haven and Royal Phuket Marina.

It's possible to visit Phuket by cruise ship. For cruises from Singapore, try Star Cruises